Buescher Aristocrat Bb

LowThudd

LowThudd

I just received my Buescher Aristocrat, serial number of 729XXX indicates that it is 78 or 79 *I think*, is this correct? Basically a Selmer signet, I believe. Should make an OK starter.

Anyway, I am new to woodwinds, and starting on clarinet then moving to a Conn stencil C Mel sax(which I am repairing).

All in all, this Buescher horn is in AWESOME shape. Much better than I expected. I replaced two tennon corks, and it seems to function fine. I was planing on replacing the pads, but they are nearly new looking.

There does seem to be an issue with the connection mechanism at the middle tenon. The metal linkages do not seem to be meeting correctly, as the corresponding key on the upper section does not fully close. The cork on the connector seems to be worn. Is that the problem? What is the procedure for synching the mechanism of the two sections?

Thanks
 
The Clarinet upper joint lower ring pad and lower joint rings are connected through the bridge key.

Many times this bridge key, the one that sticks out from the upper joint, gets bent. This is more common on older clarinets as this flat bridge seems to be thinner on older models than more modern models.

You may have to adjust this key by using some pliers (no teeth on them, smooth pliers) and making it flat. Your finger also works well in adjusting it. The normal method is to bend it up. BUt be careful about making it a curve as then only one point touches the lower bridge key mechanism. You want to try and adjust a large portion of the flat metal that touches the lower joint mechanism.

Sometimes the flat metal touches a curved lower joint mechanism, so there is a small point of contact. If the clarinet, when the joints are assmebled for playing, is adjusted a little bit to far either way from this "perfect point" it can had it "out of adjustment". Normally though it gives more play but if one plays x00-x00 then that note does not sound properly because the upper joint lower ring pad isn't closing completely.

There all is some noise material - cork between the two linkages. This cork (or felt) I try to make as thin as possible so that no compression can occur. 1/64th is good.

Also pad installation and height can have alot to do with when one pad closes and another doesn't. When this is close the adjustment is usually an adjustment to the bridge key itself.

The pad installation and height in the cup, if too much sticking out, can affect intonation and the tone (stuffy, airy, etc). With this the adjustment (other than pad heights) is done through the quieting mechanism for the lower ring keys, which is the bridge mechanism, which has cork or felt on the backside which it makes contact to the body. Many times I find this material to be too thick. If it's too thick it also brings the lower joint pad closer to the tonehole and can affect intonation and tone.

Hope that helps.
 
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Awesome, thanks. I will try your suggestions.
 
That did the trick. Thanks much!
 
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