Glue in tenon joints...

[Zoe B]

So I'm working on restoring this gorgeous 1974 Noblet artist right now, and I'm wondering if anyone has tips for getting the last little bit of glue out of the grooves on tenon joints. SO annoying... I've had some success with a largish safety pin, but there's still just enough glue left for it to bother a perfectionist like me. Anyone?

[tictactux]

Lighter fluid or rubbing alcohol should take care of that kind of glue.
Just don't expose the wood too long to it, apply a bit on a cotton bud, remove the glue, wipe the remains off with a damp cloth.

[Carl H.]

If you are going to mechanically extract the glue from the grooves, I'd say to use an old reed. Plenty rigid, but not likely to damage the wood.

If you go chemical, apply some bore oil after the removal is completed and chemical the solvents are wiped off. The oil will minimize any "damage" due to alcohol/solvent being in contact with the wood.

[jbtsax]

To clean clarinet tenons I support the joint between a "bench peg" and my abdomen and "hand rag" the tenon area with a long strip of cotton cloth about 1" wide. I saturate the middle portion of the cloth with naptha (lighter fluid) and "rag" (like shoe shining) the glued area turning the joint as needed. Then I repeat the process with a clean strip of cloth.

One needs to be careful doing this on plastic clarinets, since heat is generated by the friction and can melt the plastic. The "bench peg" is shown below. You simply drill a hole in the front of your workbench. It comes in handy for lots of jobs.

[Groovekiller]

Nope. The best solution is the plastic rotary brush available fron Dremel. It successfully removes all old glues (contact cement, shellac, and others) by melting and sweeping it away. Quick and easy. Then use contact cement, thoroughly cured to attach the new tenon cork.

Are we really, at this stage of the game, with so many technological advances, discussing glue removal from tenon joints?

P.S. - For beginners, even a plastic Dremel brush can melt plastic tenons. Proceed carefully. Stop reading stuff on the internet. Use your brain!

[clarnibass]

I use a hard plastic brush in my micromotor and for the hardest to remove I sometimes even use a brass brush. I make sure not to damage the wood or plastic simply by being careful. I use a bit of lighter fluid or alcohol to remove any greasy dirt to make sure the new glue holds, but not really to remove any old glue.

[Zoe B]

Thanks! I'm lacking in motorized equipment and work space, so I'm thinking I'll opt for the lighter fluid method (since rubbing alcohol isn't freely available in Norway)...

@Groovekiller: Hey, it had to be done! The only times I've had to change tenon cork before, the cork has fallen cleanly off, taking the glue with it. Here, I've got to replace the cork because the horn was neglected for 30 years in this dumb case where the right hand joint and bell have to stay connected

[jbtsax]

Most professional techs I have spoken with recognize that there are different methods and techniques that are equally effective and accomplish the same desired result. I usually pass on to others "what works for me" and leave it at that without rating my method over what works for others.

[kevgermany]

Thanks! I'm lacking in motorized equipment and work space, so I'm thinking I'll opt for the lighter fluid method (since rubbing alcohol isn't freely available in Norway)...

Do you have the right name for it? It's really isopropyl alcohol or isopropanol. Can't tell you what that is in Norwegian, but it's very similar in German.

You should be able to get it from electronics suppliers or a pharmacy as it's not only used for cleaning electrical/instrument parts, but also as a disinfectant.

Here the 70%/30% water is easy to find. And works pretty well.