eBay Deal o' the Moment

[LowThudd]

Def needs work, but could be a steal for someone near Toronto, CA who wants to pick it up Vintage Buescher True Tone Low Pitch Baritone Saxophone Hard to tell how dented it is under all the tarnish, but the bell looks as though it needs some help.

[pete]

Def needs work, but could be a steal for someone near Toronto, CA who wants to pick it up Vintage Buescher True Tone Low Pitch Baritone Saxophone Hard to tell how dented it is under all the tarnish, but the bell looks as though it needs some help.

It does have possibilities, but the big problem is the lack of a neck. That is a minimum of about $300, right there. And that's more like a "we can make it work" neck. Then you have the small issue of a $250 shipping charge.

It's in Toronto, Ontario. It ships to Canada, US.

[LowThudd]

It does have possibilities, but the big problem is the lack of a neck. That is a minimum of about $300, right there. And that's more like a "we can make it work" neck. Then you have the small issue of a $250 shipping charge.

It's in Toronto, Ontario. It ships to Canada, US.

I have seen a few necks for this era Bari on eBay recently. I didn't save the links, as I could see no use for it till I saw this. And, that is why I said it could be a steal for someone local to it, as many sellers will allow local pickup. If I was anywhere near Ontario, I'd go for it. You can always ask, and the worst the seller can say is no local pickups.

[kevgermany]

There's a small problem with necks. They're specific to the model of horn. Which, apart from socket size, octave linkage matching up can give problems with playing, intonation.

Which is why Pete said '"We can make it work"'. You may get lucky, but it may be an expensive nightmare.

[pete]

It's the package deal to consider:

* Neck: $300
* Shipping: $250
* Overhaul at WorldWideSax.com: $1600

That's $2150. I'd also assume that it'd need some work on the springs and WWS would charge more for the dent repairs. Maybe $300 or so more.

The cheapest bari on WWS's website is $1699. I can personally tell you that the $1699 horn, a Keilwerth-made Bundy, is a good one -- well, the one I owned was. If you prefer, they have a Martin Committee bari for $2399. And, FWIW, both the WWS basses have altissimo F keys and articulated G# keys.

Now, I could definitely do everything except the dent repairs myself, I suppose, and the supplies would probably be no more than $150. However, I also know that if I was working as a computer tech doing private consulting -- and, if I like you -- that's $75 an hour. If I don't like you, it's $7500 an hour, one hour minimum. In advance.

Wrapping this all up, unless you're a repair guy with all the tools and supplies at hand and a ton of free time, it's not worth it. Unfortunately. Hey, I've played all of one TT bari, probably a bit newer than this one, and it had great tone and intonation.

[LowThudd]

It's the package deal to consider:

* Neck: $300
* Shipping: $250
* Overhaul at WorldWideSax.com: $1600

That's $2150. I'd also assume that it'd need some work on the springs and WWS would charge more for the dent repairs. Maybe $300 or so more.

Your right. I am just looking at it from my perspective of enjoying working on woodwinds myself. Granted, I am just starting out, but it is a neat project to get into. Most would not want to get anywhere near such a project, especially with metal work needed. I have done body work on cars, including a BMW that had one headlight pointing vertically after an accident. I learned alot about metal shape memory on that. So a few dings doesn't seem that bad...to me. But for someone to have all the work done for them, it is not a great deal, especially with that shipping fee.

[pete]

Yah, as I mention, if you're a repair guy and just have stuff lying around ....

Time is an extremely precious commodity. For me, I've got maybe two hours per day that I can just do whatever I want. I tried only sleeping 6 hours a night and that didn't work out for me very well. Hey, according to family history, I have only about 25 years remaining and I've gotta work or I don't eat.

[LowThudd]

For those in the need SAXGOURMET MOONRIDER NECK FOR SELMER MARK VI TENOR

[pete]

I somewhat hesitate to post this because this horn has been ... defaced. Anyhow ...

Grafton Acrylic Alto. 181 Euros.

If you don't like clicking linkies, here's the "defaced" part: someone painted this thing marching-band-Bundy tan. One of you chemists can tell me if it can be removed. I rather hope so.

The keyguards sport some minor repairs, but are mostly intact. Arguably, the neck is worth the 181 Euros.

The horn might not go much higher because the horn is on eBay.de and looks like a incorrectly listed Keilwerth.

[kevgermany]

I'm bidding on that one...

[Helen]

His other auctions are far more interesting. His G.H. Hüller tenor, and his Triumph model Oscar Adler alto. I can tell you, if the Triumph was an tenor, I'd be all over it.

[pete]

Yup. Seen those. The Grafton's a bit more interesting from the value and rarity aspect, but there definitely are a lot of interesting Germanic saxophones for cheap on eBay.de this week.

[kevgermany]

Yup. Seen those. The Grafton's a bit more interesting from the value and rarity aspect, but there definitely are a lot of interesting Germanic saxophones for cheap on eBay.de this week.

The trouble with ebay.de is that the winning bids for interesting saxes are usually snipes. They all pile in in the last few seconds. Happened on a couple I was bidding on/interested in last night, and will probably happen to most of the ones that look cheap at the moment. Very few bargians materialise, alhough I did pick up an unopened box of 25 reeds for about the price of 2 reeds the other day.

[LowThudd]

The trouble with ebay.de is that the winning bids for interesting saxes are usually snipes. They all pile in in the last few seconds. Happened on a couple I was bidding on/interested in last night, and will probably happen to most of the ones that look cheap at the moment. Very few bargians materialise, alhough I did pick up an unopened box of 25 reeds for about the price of 2 reeds the other day.

I never make a final bid until the last few seconds. Bidding early only raises the price, and gives others a chance to talk themself into spending more than they want to. I make a low opening bid early, that way I have the one click bid option at the end of the auction.

[kevgermany]

I never make a final bid until the last few seconds. Bidding early only raises the price, and gives others a chance to talk themself into spending more than they want to.

Not sure it does. The experienced guys only bid what it's worth to them, but I often see a couple of newbies bidding really high at the end, to make sure they win. And that usually means the thing's gone for more than it's really worth. And both get hurt for setting their hearts on the thing, one cries for missing it, and the other cries for paying too much sooner or later.

[Gandalfe]

Not sure it does. The experienced guys only bid what it's worth to them, but I often see a couple of newbies bidding really high at the end, to make sure they win. And that usually means the thing's gone for more than it's really worth. And both get hurt for setting their hearts on the thing, one cries for missing it, and the other cries for paying too much sooner or later.

There are some assumptions in that viewpoint that aren't always true. If the item is rare and/or the bidder is a collector, this is the way to go. Never bid more than you want to pay, sure. But if it's something you really want and will use, I say all bets are off.

Ever notice how many times a really rare instrument will go to a professor or professional musician? Those times, I don't mind losing out, or didn't mind when I was in the acquisition phase. Now, I'm all about playing what I own.

[LowThudd]

Not sure it does. The experienced guys only bid what it's worth to them, but I often see a couple of newbies bidding really high at the end, to make sure they win. And that usually means the thing's gone for more than it's really worth. And both get hurt for setting their hearts on the thing, one cries for missing it, and the other cries for paying too much sooner or later.

My experience is from doing business both as a buyer and a seller for the last 15 years. I was selling Laser Discs in the late nineties, while buying antique cameras. After having done several hundred deals on both sides of the 'bay, in my experience it does give people a chance to rethink and decide that they really "Have to have it", and are therefor willing to spend just a bit more. Waiting till the very end does not necessarily mean lack of experience. Many long time eBayers bid that way. Because it insures that you yourself are setting the final price, rather than giving other bidders a chance to think about the items worth at that moment. It also precludes other bidders from getting "caught up in the moment" when excitement and adreneline might be elevated. *shrug* bid however you like, but from my own experience, if I put out my absolute maximum bid early, I almost always get outbid. However, if I lowball first, it gives me the option to bid my max in the last 10 seconds and/or use the one click bid button.

[LowThudd]

Nice looking (Baritone?) case for cheap. Hardly looks used.

[LowThudd]

There are some assumptions in that viewpoint that aren't always true. If the item is rare and/or the bidder is a collector, this is the way to go. Never bid more than you want to pay, sure. But if it's something you really want and will use, I say all bets are off.

Ever notice how many times a really rare instrument will go to a professor or professional musician? Those times, I don't mind losing out, or didn't mind when I was in the acquisition phase. Now, I'm all about playing what I own.

That much is true also. If I know I will be outbid no matter what, I will often not bother bidding out of respect to the other bidder. I have done that on eBay, as well as live auctions.

[SOTSDO]

I've seen a lot of baritone cases offered up for sale, particularly the huge Yamaha ones. It's my theory that they get jettisoned right quick for a gig bag, as the Yamaha case is a handful if you don't have a van.

My original was worn out, but I got a brand new "new" version of the Yamaha case for about a third of what the manufacturer was looking for in a direct purchase. Sometimes things just work out right...

[pete]

IIRC, my YBS-52 case had four handles: three on the top and one on the side. It also weighed close to what the horn did.

I've never liked the idea of gig bags. Yes, they're light. Yes, they're convenient. However, unless you're obsessively careful, you're going to damage the horn.

==============

Based on my scant eBay knowledge as a seller, I list my item at the lowest price I find acceptable and don't put a reserve on it. As a buyer, I just bid the max I think the item is worth. If it goes higher than that, I didn't want to pay that much, anyway. I haven't sold all of one item I put up for sale and I've done fairly well as a buyer.

I also tell folks that e-mail me, looking for how to sell their horn, "It's worth X. However, you're only going to get X if you're really lucky. I think you should reasonably expect Y. Put it on eBay for Y, no reserve, and hopefully you'll be surprised with X."

One of the other things about bidding what you think it's worth is that it tends to make you a little more savvy on the actual value. As an example, about a month after the iPad 3 came out, I started trawling eBay for iPad 2s. I bid on several and my max bids were always taken out by $50 or more. I then decided to start trawling for original iPads (32gb wireless). Not only did I get one for far less than an iPad 2, it's got twice the memory of the iPad 2s I was looking at. The iPad 1 works just fine for what I do with it.

[LowThudd]

I've never liked the idea of gig bags. Yes, they're light. Yes, they're convenient. However, unless you're obsessively careful, you're going to damage the horn.

I've got that problem with my "V" shaped Guitars. No gig bag in the world will keep the pointy bits safe, but each of my V's has a case that weighs twice what the guitar weighs. If you want to play a V, you either get big arms, or you get a dinged up V. lol

[LowThudd]

For those repairing a Conn 24M Alto.

[SOTSDO]

I agree. I'm using the original cases for my horns (or an in kind replacement), and I've had minimal problems. Back in the days when I played borrowed baritones (all of which were in gig bags), they were constantly out of whack.

It troubles me that I'm going to have to occasionally use a gig bag when we get our new Toyota iQ. Although I can easily fit my baritone case into our much smaller smart Passion coupe (which has a front seat that folds down flat), it's just not going to work in the iQ. I'll have to use a gig bag and keep the horn in the front seat.

[LowThudd]

I agree. I'm using the original cases for my horns (or an in kind replacement), and I've had minimal problems. Back in the days when I played borrowed baritones (all of which were in gig bags), they were constantly out of whack.

It troubles me that I'm going to have to occasionally use a gig bag when we get our new Toyota iQ. Although I can easily fit my baritone case into our much smaller smart Passion coupe (which has a front seat that folds down flat), it's just not going to work in the iQ. I'll have to use a gig bag and keep the horn in the front seat.

The new poly foam cases are promissing. If I had a baritone, I might look in to a custom case for it. Poly foam absorbs impact, and has reasonable tensile dtrength, but doesn't require a hard outer shell. Since you are(I am assuming) a professional player, may be worth the expense. I did make a fairly well padded gig bag for my c mels, but it did get my paranoia up trecking with it just for one day. I'll probably break down and get a hard case, but I'll be looking into a custom poly foam case first.