I hate to get all preaching and all, but...
...this is just another version of the suspended by peg and neck stand, only with a tripod base rather than a heavily weighted one.
Nothing wrong with the stability of the basic setup, as long as (and emphasis added here) there's absolutely no chance of the legs getting tripped upon by passing flautists and oboists (or, as was my experience, by Hollywood type thespians). That's the main objection to all of these stands, and if you operate in a safe environment, this stand will serve just fine.
We in the woodwinds generally get shoved into the nooks and crannies of the orchestra/band. The trombones need space for their slide, the percussionists need to move around and shake things, the string folks have those stupid bows that they flail about all over the place (and don't get me started on those 'cellists with their boxes between their legs), the keyboard players...well, I don't have an answer there - I guess they just merit the extra space they are granted). All of this, combined with the clutter on the floor in many musical situations (remind me to share my instructions for how to wire up bandstand or pit wiring some time), and the need to access all portions of the setup between acts/sets, makes for a lot of klutsy feet shuffling about, all within inches of your precious instrument on its towering stand.
And, truth be told, this kind of hazard is something all horns are exposed to. Even a sax or a trumpet or a trombone can get nailed, and very likely you have witnessed such an event yourself. If you are lucky, you will be able to catch the horn before it takes a tumble.
However, unlike a saxophone, the bass clarinet stand bears the weight of the horn far, far, far higher off of the floor. Also (and I speak from experience here, boys and girls), a saxophone or other brass instrument is capable of surviving serious damage and coming back as good as it was before the event. A wooden bass clarinet (with all of that weight way up high, remember) taking a tumble over a three to four foot distance is not likely to come through with flying colors, and is much more likely to suffer permanent (rather than temporary) disarrangement.
(Now, with a $900 Selmer USA plastic horn, you may be willing to take the risk. With a $8,000 plus wooden horn, maybe not so much. Insurance may be nice, but first off you'll be replacing a very-likely hand selected horn with an off the rack replacement, minus the deductible. And, good luck convincing them that your spidery-based stand was an adequate safeguard for your many-thousand dollar investment.)
Once again, I refer to my "bullet proof" stand. Having a tipping force of well over twenty pounds at a right angle in any direction, it's not going anywhere, unless of course the high reeds are engaged in a football scrimmage in between movements or acts. It's a bit more trouble to transport, but once you have witnessed the sort of incidents that I have, you will gladly bear the burden.
(My stand is also much more flexible than most (even over the SaxRax), with the same base accommodating up to three or four saxes, up to five clarinets or flutes (or even oboes and english horns), and with spots for the obligatory bass clarinet and bassoon stands (with some sacrifices of the other spots). I even found room for an accessory box and a drink holder (although never for a reed pot for the bassoon reeds - it was too hard to reach in a hurry down at ground level).)
And, the base itself and the associated baritone stand only cost about $40.00 to fabricate. (The bass clarinet stand, bassoon stand and various pegs are extra, commercial items, items that you may already have.) Take that, SaxRax...
And, when I say stable, I mean stable. The rubber toilet seat grommets used under the base hold that sucker in place like a pipe vise, even on a slippery dance floor. (Remember dance wax? I do...) Even that heavyweight commercial stand can't make that claim, as it has a far smaller footprint (i.e., the non-skid holds only as long as it takes to tip the base slightly, after which it is Katy bar the door).
The fabrication is so simple that even a tenor player could do it. All of the basic parts are available at any hardware store. I originally used standard 2" x 4" (nominal) studs for the H-shaped base, although some ten years after I made the second one, I switched to custom cut and milled oak lumber (and even laid in three additional sets of cross-pieces, just in case).
Other than the wood, the bolts and other fittings can be found in the hardware aisle at any Home Depot or Lowe's (where, incidentally, we veterans get a 5% discount on everything). Some of the items are "unusual", to say the least, but they know what they are, and when purchased to the materials list, will work flawlessly.
The tools needed are an electric drill, standard bits (although Forstner bits will do a neater job in some areas), a circular saw (my first one was done with a contractor saw, the second with higher precision equipment - both were well-fitted, in any event, thanks to the chisel), and screwdrivers, a hammer and chisel (to finish the woodworking) and sandpaper. I painted my first two flat black, but yielded to orchestral pressures with my last version and went for clear stain that time around.
Now, if only our Pete could find the original posting, complete with extensive photo documentation...