Leblanc Backun

Re the clarinet top banana key, sometimes even if the rod screw is from the bottom it can pass the G# key. I just thought, maybe it's possible to reverse the posts! Of course you have to put the spring on the opposite post or move the spring cradle. I guess most models with the problem are not so good quality that would be worth it. Not sure it would ever be worth as it would just make it easier to repair and doesn't help the player really (i.e. the time it would take to do that might be even longer than removing the necessary keys first).

Generally speaking the higher priced instruments are made to closer tolerances, with better designed mechanisms, and have better quality materials than lower priced ones. You do get what you pay for (when you look beyond the shiny exterior).
Yes, just yesterday I worked on another cheap Chinese model. This is from a place that only buys the cheapest. I tried to slightly bend a post and the post fell... without its base! It was soft soldered to its base. I suspect some of those cheapest models use only soft soldering to save money.

But OTOH, some of those problems are most annoying on the expensive instrument where you don't expect them. Like the low C# linkage on that Borgani. It was a lot of work just to make it posible to make the spring lighter. I even told them about it and explained the problem. Two years later I still see the same model with the same design flaw.

A recent example of this is a Selmer Privilege bass clarinet I worked on yesterday. Actually I worked on one of those some months ago too, when the mouthpiece socket came unsoldered from the neck... during a concert!
On this one, which is almost new, one problem was the G/D key was too resistant. This key is connected to the double register mechanism and is always stronger than some other keys but it was ridiculously strong. It is connected to a connecting hinge and material there is cork. Changing to teflon. Then the connecting hinge has a far too strong spring causing the problem. However this spring needs to overcome the neck key spring, but their linkage has a poor design and material too, causing more friction. Improving linkage some and putting better material. Some improvement, but still, the neck key spring is too strong. Weakening that spring, now it's possible to weaken the connecting hinge spring. Seems ok at first, but no, the neck key is now too weak because of a very slightly binding pivot at the see-saw part of the mech. Why? Because the posts are not completely aligned (in their heights!!!) and the rod screw is slightly bent near the threads. This is a $9,500 instrument.
 
Ahh. The old spring versus spring versus friction between moving parts versus friction in hinge tube. Don't ya love it. :)

I enjoyed your description Nitai. Those "chasing your tail" problems with woodwind octave and register key mechanisms can be a challenge sometimes.

This is why brass repair techs make more money. They estimate $20 to remove dents in a bell, they roll out the dents, and they are done. The woodwind repair tech estimates $20 to fix the slight hesitation in a key, and 50 steps later they are done.

Yes, just yesterday I worked on another cheap Chinese model. This is from a place that only buys the cheapest. I tried to slightly bend a post and the post fell... without its base! It was soft soldered to its base. I suspect some of those cheapest models use only soft soldering to save money.

This is exactly why we hesitate to work on this quality of instrument in our shop.
 
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