Oiling the wood

kymarto

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I thought it might be better to start an actual thread on the subject. Here is a quote from Naylor's woodwind repair, who I consider the authority on the subject:

If you value your instrument and wish to keep it in good condition for as long as possible, I suggest that you use my organic bore oil to stabilize the wood and protect the bore from saliva damage. Ultimately, the frequency of oiling is determined by the rate of absorption by the wood. Initially, an instrument may absorb a noticeable amount of organic bore oil. If the instrument is to be hand oiled only, one could oil several times in the first week or two. Eventually, the instrument should be oiled once every four to six weeks depending on many factors including, for example, relative humidity, hours of use per week, and the quality of the player's saliva. Since there are many things a musician should know before starting an oiling routine, I provide a detailed handout covering oiling procedures with the return of an immersion processed instrument and with orders for organic bore oil. Using organic oil is necessary for the good health of the instrument, but equally important is knowing how to apply the oil safely and how to determine the frequency of oiling.

More from Naylor:


One of my first experiments was on a very old, neglected, ring-system English horn with a severely warped upper joint and damaged bore. I prepared the wood and hand-oiled the body inside and out for three weeks. When the wood had saturated itself with vegetable oil, I wiped the body down and examined the instrument. I noted the bore had noticeably improved. However, I was very surprised to find that the warped upper joint was completely straight. Repairs on this English horn and other early instruments seemed to indicate that I was on the right track:

Organic vegetable oils interact with wood (fibers).

Organic oil can stress-relieve the wood — even straighten a warped body!

Organic oil processing tightened loose tenon to socket fit, and improved key fit.

In dry climates, technicians typically must refit keys and tenon rings on new instruments. Because I didn't have the knowledge to save my original grenadilla clarinet, when I bought a new Buffet R13, I decided to oil it rather than do the usual refit.

I hand-oiled the bore, tenon shoulders and end grain for three weeks. At first, the wood absorbed vegetable oil so rapidly that I had to oil four times a day for two days. Ultimately, oiling frequency tapered off to once every three days. Once the wood had saturated itself with oil, I began break-in. Because of that initial oiling, I did not have to refit any keys or shrink rings for many years. I also noticed that the wood would sweat a little oil on its outside even though I did not oil the outside of the instrument These results indicated that:

Organic oils help maintain dimensional integrity.

Oil slowly diffused through instrument walls from the bore to the outside.
 
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I use the same type of methods, which I've gotten from them.
They also use immersion techniques but it all depends upon the severity of the instrument.

I've had a barrel that was nearly white and looked hopeless. After continuous oiling process it came back to life and looks pretty good. I've also done the process on really old and dried up clarinet bodies. All excellent results even after they were "blown out" with measurements that concluded it. All to be brought back to life.
 
I feel like this should be in a general maintenance area of the forums versus the tárogató area, that way more people can find and see it quicker. Oiling has a lot more to do than with tárogatós only. :)
 
Ah, perfect! I thought I saw one or two floating around here.
 
A few more quotes from Larry Naylor's website:

"Vegetable oils, especially the lighter oils, are hydrophilic. While not considered soluble in water, they will incorporate water within their molecular structure. This is understandable because they are produced directly by plants in an aqueous environment. Common uses for vegetable oils include food preparation, skin care products, and agents for finishing and preserving (antique) furniture and stringed instruments. I would soon find that vegetable oils are absorbed by grenadilla wood. I began my "oil or not, petroleum versus organic" research by studying cork, cork being harvested bark from a tree."

"Thus far, my experiments had indicated that I could improve bore condition, improve tenon-to-socket fit, stress-relieve wooden bodies, and stabilize the dimensions of new instruments."

"It appeared that vegetable bore oil was acting as a mediator between moisture and wood fibers. The presence of vegetable oils in the wood did not allow a rapid intake of condensation through the bore, but it was not acting as a vapor barrier either. The presence of vegetable bore oil in the wood still allowed the wood to absorb water vapor — but at a greatly reduced rate."

"Organic oil processing lessens dimensional changes when wood breathes."

"Immersion processing involves preparing the wood, first by removing petroleum products from the instrument body, as well as any key oil and petroleum based cork grease. We then immerse the instrument in a tank containing a specific blend of organic oils at a controlled temperature. Depending on the condition of the wood, actual immer­sion lasts five to eight days. After immersion, we drip-dry the instrument and monitor the wood for three weeks. Once the wood is ready, we then mechanically rebuild the instrument: cleaning & refitting all keys, and installing new pads and tenon corks."

If "over oiling" all at once were dangerous to the wood because it doesn't know when it is full and can absorb too much, certainly being totally immersed in heated oil for five to eight days would be devastating. Based upon Naylor's well documented research it seems that grenadilla like a moderate holiday imbiber knows when it has had enough and stops drinking.
 
wood density also has alot to do with it in regards to over oiling, etc.

African Blackwood is a very dense wood fiber.

Some rosewoods, such as one type that I experimented with a few years ago can be vastly different. One such experiment I submersed a test barrel of rosewood with the wood "unfinished".

The Rosewood soaked in a mix of mostly almond oil and another in a base of linseed oil. The linseed one got way too much liquid and actually got soggy in the thinner socket sections. The almond also had problems. Allowing them to dry for days did make it better but it's still visible to this day where it got over saturated on the linseed one. A few weeks after the experiment I finished and polished them up.

I recall in one test, before I prepped some African Blackwood that two 3x3x8 pieces were substantially different in weight, about 1lb difference !!

The African blackwood did not have the issues that the Rosewood had with oiling.

Selmer Paris actually treats their wood in gigantic pressure cookers. At least they did at one time.

and about the oils themselves. I've learned that boiled linseed oil will get thick and cause functional keywork problems fairly quickly. Other oils not so much and they take a much longer time to "thicken" up. ie, Boiled Linseed, a matter of days and less (yes, it can catch rags on fire) as it creates alot of energy really quickly and other oils such as Almond may take many months in a controlled environment.
 
I've learned that boiled linseed oil will get thick and cause functional keywork problems fairly quickly. Other oils not so much and they take a much longer time to "thicken" up. ie, Boiled Linseed, a matter of days and less (yes, it can catch rags on fire) as it creates alot of energy really quickly and other oils such as Almond may take many months in a controlled environment.

Wouldn't using a drying/hardening oil, like boiled linseed oil, be a big no-no for these types of instruments anyway? Essentially it's a very weak varnish, and varnish is not something you'd want in the bore. Or maybe I understood incorrectly.

George
 
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