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Pads stiffness

I've pretty much used only Music Medic Precision pads for all my work, which amounts to a couple of clarinets and several saxophones. One thing i'm noticing is that Precisions are far firmer than most every pad they're replacing.

I know that some consider firm pads best practice, but I'm wondering if there can't be some compromise on this for purposes of quietness and ease of floating and leakproofing.

The snap ins that seem to have been OEM from Buescher during the 60s seem to work well and aren't overy firm.

Any pad recommendations would be welcome.

thanks!
 
I have been very happy with both the white roo pads and the precision pads I have purchased from Music Medic. They have medium firm felt that is not overly hard in my opinion.

Most of my experience has been with Allied and Ferrees pads, and although they are not bad for doing play condition pad replacement, I prefer the Precision pads for doing complete repads. Their flatness and uniformity of make them easy to fit and install.

The only reason to use a pad softer than the Precision or white roo pads would to compensate for an imperfect tonehole where leveling is not possible. I have toyed with the idea of possibly using a softer pad on spring closed keys like the fork F# or low Eb to help quiet the key noise when the key closes, but I haven't yet followed up with any trials as yet.
 
I guess that's a bit of what I'm facing. Some tonehole/cup oddities on the Bundy 2.

it's not too prenounced, but I don't have equipment to deal with it right now...
 
Every Bundy II I've seen (total about 20-30) had very warped and wavy tone holes, at least a significant amount of them. I don't actually remember a single level tone hole that seemed original. Most weren't just non-level in a gradual way which is easier to deal with, but almost random 'waves' of high and low spots. Medium-hard pads would be impossible to use without leveling them. Just IME.

I think Precision pads are a very good value. I've tried them from Music Medic and also another source and didn't like them as much as the pads I was already using, but I think they are great for the price (they are some of the cheapest pads). From what I remember (too lazy to go check now...) they are about the same firmness as the pads I use most. I also stock pads that are slightly firmer and slightly softer, but still won't allow to seal properly on warped and wavy tone holes.

For clarinet pads, you can notice Music Medic has both pressed felt and woven felt pads. I've only tried the woven felt ones from them and consider them pretty soft.

I think Prestini has many models of pads including some that are purposely made pretty soft to work on instruments with warped tone holes. I haven't tried them though.
 
thanks clarnibass,

what pads do you prefer? Im thinking of trying something different just to see. I am definitely thinking of trying some less firms pads.

don't have the cash yet for tonehole leveling equipment.
 
I strongly recommend the Jim Schmidt diamond tonehole files sold by Music Medic. A set for alto and tenor sax is only $160. I would also recommend the set of 7 extra pilots for and additional $35. For just under $200 you will have everything you need. IMO it is a waste of time trying to perfectly seat a pad over a tone hole that is not perfectly level. It is difficult enough to get perfection when it is. :)

Does anyone have experience with the "My Pads" sold by Pisoni? There is currently a thread on SOTW where these pads are extremely sticky on a Buescher.




...
 
what pads do you prefer?
For sax, I mostly use Premium Deluxe from Music Center. I sometimes use Pro and Mypads also. I just compared these by pressing my finger (not so scientific...) and seems that PRO is about the same firmness as Precisions. Precisions and white Roo pads were pretty much the same (sometimes Precisions actually felt firmer, hard to say). PD is close but a tiny bit softer maybe. Mypads is slightly softer.

For clarinet I use Kraus 101 (also made by Music Center), Premium Deluxe and Mypads. These are (respectively and relative to each other, not others) hard, medium hard, medium to medium-hard. Precision woven felt pads are softer than Mypads.

But to be honest if you have to install pads on non-leveled tone holes on a Bundy II I might try especially softer pads such as the specific models made for this purpose by Prestini.

I strongly recommend the Jim Schmidt diamond tonehole files sold by Music Medic. A set for alto and tenor sax is only $160. I would also recommend the set of 7 extra pilots for and additional $35. For just under $200 you will have everything you need.
I also recommend this set. I would also recommend the extra plastic pilots. It's annoying to use some of the files as pilots. But one thing, if you order this, make sure to ask for more hex screws, at least one for each file. The set comes with only two I think. It's very annoying to constantly move them between files. I was very surprised my set came with so few and when I ordered more, it was less than $1 if I remember. I would prefer they raise the set price slightly and just include more of them.

Re not worth installing pads without leveling the tone holes, some people just can't afford even $160 for this, it is a significant expense. Sometimes the best is to do what's possible in a situation.

Does anyone have experience with the "My Pads" sold by Pisoni? There is currently a thread on SOTW where these pads are extremely sticky on a Buescher.
Yes, I have some stock of these and use them occasionally. I found they are not especially sticky in comparison with most other pads. I certainly haven't had a sticking problem with them. Roo pads (both white and black) are known to be non-stick and I've seen saxophones with them which had sticky pad problems.
 
I also recommend this set. I would also recommend the extra plastic pilots. It's annoying to use some of the files as pilots. But one thing, if you order this, make sure to ask for more hex screws, at least one for each file. The set comes with only two I think. It's very annoying to constantly move them between files. I was very surprised my set came with so few and when I ordered more, it was less than $1 if I remember. I would prefer they raise the set price slightly and just include more of them.
These hex screws in various lengths are readily available in good hardware stores in my area. I have made some extra neoprene guides on a lathe, but for $5.00 each it is not worth the time and hassle with my limited machinist experience.
 
These hex screws in various lengths are readily available in good hardware stores in my area. I have made some extra neoprene guides on a lathe, but for $5.00 each it is not worth the time and hassle with my limited machinist experience.
Yes, I just rather to add about $1 and get four more with the set than to find out when it arrives, then spend about 1-2 hours to buy from a local store.

As far as the guides, I agree. I just bought their extra guide set of 17 more sizes which I almost made myself. I would need to buy another tap or set up the thread cutting tool on my lathe, so it was worth buying it eventually compared with time and cost of materials.
 
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