Thinking about making a case for my taragot
- Thread starter Gheorghe
- Start date
Update on the case
I decided that my time is a lot more expensive than 60 bucks spent on buying a hard case, so this is what I bought:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Vanguard-VGP-Universal-Series-Mid-Size-Photo-Video-Hard-Case/11073415
Walmart had lower price and quicker (and cheaper) shipping than amazon.com, so I have the case already. It's a snug fit for my instrument, I wouldn't want it any smaller. It comes with the diced foam interior, where you just pluck the cubes out yourself to form whatever shape you need. You do want to cover the open-pore soft foam with some fabric, as you probably don't want to end up with little pieces of crap inside your keywork. So now I'm looking at ways to glue fabric to the soft foam. I wonder if superglue is still an option.
For now, my "lining" is an old t-shirt on top of the foam, but the taragot already has a much healthier home than its previous case.
George
I decided that my time is a lot more expensive than 60 bucks spent on buying a hard case, so this is what I bought:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Vanguard-VGP-Universal-Series-Mid-Size-Photo-Video-Hard-Case/11073415
Walmart had lower price and quicker (and cheaper) shipping than amazon.com, so I have the case already. It's a snug fit for my instrument, I wouldn't want it any smaller. It comes with the diced foam interior, where you just pluck the cubes out yourself to form whatever shape you need. You do want to cover the open-pore soft foam with some fabric, as you probably don't want to end up with little pieces of crap inside your keywork. So now I'm looking at ways to glue fabric to the soft foam. I wonder if superglue is still an option.
For now, my "lining" is an old t-shirt on top of the foam, but the taragot already has a much healthier home than its previous case.
George
There is a case maker up in Wisconsin...
...who made the box portions of the case for Leblanc back in the day. You would supply the guts (either a Plywood cutout, or a foam block), and then he would cover the guts and mount them in a custom-made box.
Don't know where I put the name and address though - it's filed away here somewhere.
...who made the box portions of the case for Leblanc back in the day. You would supply the guts (either a Plywood cutout, or a foam block), and then he would cover the guts and mount them in a custom-made box.
Don't know where I put the name and address though - it's filed away here somewhere.
It way my good fortune to find that the case that came with the York soprano that had no keys that I bought on eBay was about an inch longer than modern soprano cases and fit my tárogató perfectly. My $86 wasn't completely wasted afterall. 
The downside is that the instrument has to be left assembled, but that is a small price to pay for a case that works. In time it will get a new interior fabric to replace the yucky green, and new outer covering sporting cleaned and polished hardware.
The downside is that the instrument has to be left assembled, but that is a small price to pay for a case that works. In time it will get a new interior fabric to replace the yucky green, and new outer covering sporting cleaned and polished hardware.
I love the expanding fowm indea, but have reservations about chemicals being given off that would affect the sax, not just when you're moulding the case, but afterwards.
Especially bare brass or bare silver.
Any thoughts?
Especially bare brass or bare silver.
Any thoughts?
My guess is that the chemicals in the foam would become inert once the product has cured. That is just a guess, however. One could test the product by putting some on a piece of cardboard, letting it cure and then putting it up to one's nose. If odorless, it could be tested further by placing a piece of polished piece of silver on it for a day or two. I believe that the compounds that tarnish both brass and silver contain sulphur. Even if the cured compound has an effect upon these metals it could be enclosed in an airtight plastic wrap prior to covering with the case lining material.
The "Pluck Foam" cases are being used for years to store cameras and construction measuring equipment with no ill effects.
A potential problem with all plastics is that they react upon solvents or solvent fumes, UV light and heat, and become gooey and marshmellowy. As long as you keep these ingredients away from the foam, you shouldn't have a problem.
And if you want to line the thing with cloth, do only use white glue (PVA), as its only solvent is water which doesn't do any harm to the foam. Not so sure about Cyanoacrylate (it's has quite an aggressive odour when applied) aka Superglue.
A potential problem with all plastics is that they react upon solvents or solvent fumes, UV light and heat, and become gooey and marshmellowy. As long as you keep these ingredients away from the foam, you shouldn't have a problem.
And if you want to line the thing with cloth, do only use white glue (PVA), as its only solvent is water which doesn't do any harm to the foam. Not so sure about Cyanoacrylate (it's has quite an aggressive odour when applied) aka Superglue.
Wow, am I late to the party or what? I guess I don't get out of the sax section much! I should really expand my interests.
Yes, I've had my fair experience with custom cases. Before the bass saxophone renaissance took hold, I had a custom case built for my 1922 Buescher. I documented the experienced here on my site. Then a couple of years ago, a fellow member of the Bass Sax Co-op also made a custom case for his vintage baby. However, he used fiberglass. I published his efforts in a photo essay on my site as well.
On the smaller end of the spectrum, about 10 or so years ago, I made a case for my curved soprano out of the same type of metal tool brief case that Gandalfe's wife customized.
Yes, I've had my fair experience with custom cases. Before the bass saxophone renaissance took hold, I had a custom case built for my 1922 Buescher. I documented the experienced here on my site. Then a couple of years ago, a fellow member of the Bass Sax Co-op also made a custom case for his vintage baby. However, he used fiberglass. I published his efforts in a photo essay on my site as well.
On the smaller end of the spectrum, about 10 or so years ago, I made a case for my curved soprano out of the same type of metal tool brief case that Gandalfe's wife customized.
The foam I was referring to was...
...the expanded polyethylene stuff that dishes are wrapped in, only purchased in six inch thick blocks. You would glue (with the 3M super spray glue) and pin (with wooden dowels through sections not housing a horn part) the blocks of foam together, and then carve out the cavities with a "hot wire" (a length of nichrome wire on a wooden stick, attached to a model railroad transformer. Once the cavity is to size, you then send it off to the box maker, where it is covered and installed in the case.
I forget the prices quoted, but I know that the most expensive element of the whole project was the raw blocks of foam, with prices up in the fifty dollar range each. The hot wire cost ten bucks or so to put together, the transformer could be had for another ten, and the glue and dowels for another ten. The finished case cost from the box maker was less than all of the rest put together.
My bass clarinet case is dying, I can't get a replacement that fits (since Selmer no longer has them and the aftermarket stuff is too cheap and too "universal" to work) and I would love to replace it with a combination bass clarinet/clarinet case made to my spec (storage, latches that work, a handle that doesn't look like it came from a 1920's suitcase), but the blocks of the polyethylene foam are a) expensive and b) hard to find.
...the expanded polyethylene stuff that dishes are wrapped in, only purchased in six inch thick blocks. You would glue (with the 3M super spray glue) and pin (with wooden dowels through sections not housing a horn part) the blocks of foam together, and then carve out the cavities with a "hot wire" (a length of nichrome wire on a wooden stick, attached to a model railroad transformer. Once the cavity is to size, you then send it off to the box maker, where it is covered and installed in the case.
I forget the prices quoted, but I know that the most expensive element of the whole project was the raw blocks of foam, with prices up in the fifty dollar range each. The hot wire cost ten bucks or so to put together, the transformer could be had for another ten, and the glue and dowels for another ten. The finished case cost from the box maker was less than all of the rest put together.
My bass clarinet case is dying, I can't get a replacement that fits (since Selmer no longer has them and the aftermarket stuff is too cheap and too "universal" to work) and I would love to replace it with a combination bass clarinet/clarinet case made to my spec (storage, latches that work, a handle that doesn't look like it came from a 1920's suitcase), but the blocks of the polyethylene foam are a) expensive and b) hard to find.
I am not crazy about white PVA glue, as it tends to creep forever. BUT, I love the yellow PVA glue. My preferred brand is Titebond II. It's marketed as wood glue, but really it works with most porous surfaces. Today I tested 3 glues (fabric on "pluck" foam): White PVA, yellow PVA, and "Barge" contact cement. Barge would probably work the best, as it doesn't seep through the fabric, but I'm not crazy about the fumes, and I'm not sure how long it takes for them to go away. My choice will be Titebond II (yellow PVA), as it dries completely, and in terms of strength, outperforms the white glue in most cases. After about 10 hours, it's completely dry, whereas the white PVA is still wet. The bond, to my surprise, is really strong, eventhough the foam is basically plastic. I guess it's the whole porousness thing.
Both PVA glues are non-toxic by the way.
Thanks for all the tips, I should have a nice case within a few days. I'll post some pictures when I'm done.
George
(per the white vs yellow PVA glues) I guess there is a lot of variation in the locally obtainable brands. Not all PVA glues are equal, obviously, and one certainly is well advised to find out about their preferred local product. Maybe that's why there are several competing brands, each one better suited for a specific application than others.
My point was to look for a non-toxic water-based product, whatever its colour or name might be.
My point was to look for a non-toxic water-based product, whatever its colour or name might be.
Kinda like the Prius cars - "green" to drive, but pretty ungreen to make...
As long as I feel good...
Very true - non-toxic is the way to go. In the US, the "White PVA" glue is usually sold under "Elmer's". Their yellow PVA glue is good, and can be undone with water. Titebond is another company. Their PVA glues range from the reversible yellow glue to Titebond III which is 100% waterproof and very permanent.
Titebond II worked like a charm for gluing velvet to the soft foam - it turned out better than I expected, and I plan on finishing the case up in the next 2 days. Pictures to follow.
George
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With apologies to Elsie the cow...
...the brand name is "Elmer's", named after Elsie's husband, Elmer the bull, who is a rather rugged looking fellow. Both are trademarks of Borden's, the US dairy company founded right here in little old Houston.
One thing I like about the newer offerings of PVA glue is that they come in a bottle with a built in roller dispenser. It's a great way to lay down a perfect layer of the stuff...
...the brand name is "Elmer's", named after Elsie's husband, Elmer the bull, who is a rather rugged looking fellow. Both are trademarks of Borden's, the US dairy company founded right here in little old Houston.
One thing I like about the newer offerings of PVA glue is that they come in a bottle with a built in roller dispenser. It's a great way to lay down a perfect layer of the stuff...
Sorry, just a typo. It's Elmer's for sure.
Not when you get a gallon of it like I do
Typically when a "white PVA glue" is called for, I can safely use yellow PVA glue with better result. The yellow glue also gets tacky quicker, which was a benefit in making my taragot case.
George
