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Contact cement for pads?

Is there anything wrong with using contact cement for key pads? I've been using Barge for reglueing pads that come loose, as well as for a few new ones I installed.

Anything wrong with this choice of glue? It's easily removable, so I don't see any drawbacks.

George
 
Is there anything wrong with using contact cement for key pads? I've been using Barge for reglueing pads that come loose, as well as for a few new ones I installed.

Anything wrong with this choice of glue? It's easily removable, so I don't see any drawbacks.

George

If you are referring to the pieces of cork and felt attached to the feet of keys and where keys come in contact with one another then contact cement is an excellent choice. I have tried Barge and was put off by the strong odor. I prefer Weldwood which is available at most hardware stores. It can be thinned with tolulene when it gets too thick.

Contact cement would not be recommended for the pads in key cups since it would make it impossible to heat the key cup and "float" the pad.
 
If you are referring to the pieces of cork and felt attached to the feet of keys and where keys come in contact with one another then contact cement is an excellent choice. I have tried Barge and was put off by the strong odor. I prefer Weldwood which is available at most hardware stores. It can be thinned with tolulene when it gets too thick.

Contact cement would not be recommended for the pads in key cups since it would make it impossible to heat the key cup and "float" the pad.

I used contact cement on the pads as well. I had to do a quick repair before a concert, and it worked, so I just stuck with it. It just shows how little I know about these instruments - I had no idea about "floating" pads:) So what glue is typically used then? Whatever was used originally on this instrument is brown and brittle. It almost looks like violin rosin. Whatever it is, I'm pretty sure it would stop working under heat.

The solvents in Barge is what stinks - I'm pretty sure it goes away after a few days. But now I'm paranoid about health:) I was told they changed the Barge formula to replace one of the more dangerous chemicals, as hippies used to sniff the original Barge when they finished fixing their Birkenstocks with it.
 
The "way to go" for pads is some kind of "hot melt" glue, be it synthetic or shellac. The stuff you've encountered is used mostly in Europe and has the name "Polsterkitt" which translates to "pad putty" (there's a white variety which really looks like window putty). It does indeed become soft under heat and sets to a rather brittle consistence after cooling. I don't like that stuff. Can't say why, tho'.

The cheapest you can use are glue sticks cut to chips that are melted in the key cup. MusicMedic sells glue pellets that serve the same purpose.
Others swear on shellac. Unlike hot-melt glue, shellac isn't subject to forming cheeselike strings when you remove a pad which certainly is a plus.
It boils down to personal preference, as long as the "glue" is heatable so that a slightly misaligned pad can be floated into position.
 
The "way to go" for pads is some kind of "hot melt" glue, be it synthetic or shellac. The stuff you've encountered is used mostly in Europe and has the name "Polsterkitt" which translates to "pad putty" (there's a white variety which really looks like window putty). It does indeed become soft under heat and sets to a rather brittle consistence after cooling. I don't like that stuff. Can't say why, tho'.

The cheapest you can use are glue sticks cut to chips that are melted in the key cup. MusicMedic sells glue pellets that serve the same purpose.
Others swear on shellac. Unlike hot-melt glue, shellac isn't subject to forming cheeselike strings when you remove a pad which certainly is a plus.
It boils down to personal preference, as long as the "glue" is heatable so that a slightly misaligned pad can be floated into position.

Just for my own reference, the shellac is the NON de-waxed variety. Unlike what is used for wood finishing. Correct? Or is it a special shellac specifically for woodwind?
 
Same stuff. You can also dissolve it in ethanol and use it as a cork glue.

Polsterkitt is sealing wax and you can substitute that. Doesn't seem to hold as well or as long as shellac. And seems to be more brittle.
 
I like Ferree's amber shellac sold in sticks for saxophone pads. It is a bit pricey, but it is great to work with. Music Medic sells stick shellac as well. For clarinet and flute trill and c key pads I use Badger State's Shur Stick which was originally the hot melt glue used by Leblanc. It also is very easy to work with.

For emergencies when pads fall out before a concert one can sometimes heat the key cup with a lighter and get the glue to stick again. Another band director trick is to use a small piece of chewing gum to reattach a clarinet pad that has fallen out. The drum section is always a good source of freshly chewed gum right before a concert. :)
 
I like Ferree's amber shellac sold in sticks for saxophone pads. It is a bit pricey, but it is great to work with. Music Medic sells stick shellac as well. For clarinet and flute trill and c key pads I use Badger State's Shur Stick which was originally the hot melt glue used by Leblanc. It also is very easy to work with.

For emergencies when pads fall out before a concert one can sometimes heat the key cup with a lighter and get the glue to stick again. Another band director trick is to use a small piece of chewing gum to reattach a clarinet pad that has fallen out. The drum section is always a good source of freshly chewed gum right before a concert. :)

OK, then I'll be sure to squeeze a pack of gum into my new case: http://www.woodwindforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=39323&postcount=39

[/bragging turned off]
 
While were talking pads, I was wondering if using a soldering gun for heating the cups during install/adjustment is a good practice? I have a great Weller soldering gun that I use for guitar repair. I was thinking that might be easier on the finish than an open flame.
 
While were talking pads, I was wondering if using a soldering gun for heating the cups during install/adjustment is a good practice? I have a great Weller soldering gun that I use for guitar repair. I was thinking that might be easier on the finish than an open flame.

A soldering gun can be used successfully with adhesives. With shellacs you do have to be a bit careful. As the pad cup heats up the shellac will start to melt at the point of the heat source and thus you have to have a routine to move the tip at a couple points on the pad cup. This will allow it to melt more consistently.

Also, while heating the lower adhesive melts and builds up heat where as the outer isn't melted yet. If one overheats (with any heat source) the more extreme build up of heat can have the shellac "pop" in certain situations.

But the proper amount of heat takes a little bit of experimentation. Once the cup heats you do not have to keep constant contact, you can pull away and allow a few more seconds and it will melt. Too much heat while putting the pad on and it will lift up (too much heat buildup in the shellac). Too little heat and the adhesive doesn't stick well.

While inserting the pad you can twist it slightly to feel how the adhesive is. I can't really explain how it should "feel" but you'll figure it out quickly.

I use a soldering gun but a hobby one that uses a flat spatula type tip. I also use flame, concentrated heat gun, but prefer the hobby soldering gun especially for adjustments in initially 10 then 6 second increments for pad adjustments (melting the adhesive just enough for adjustments).


I've never used the soldering gun technique with stick melt adhesives, or gum :)
 
Great explanation, thanks much. I'll have to look around on ebay. There are dozens of tip styles available for the weller. From your advice, I can much more visualize what tip might work better and how to use it.
 
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