Is there anything wrong with using contact cement for key pads? I've been using Barge for reglueing pads that come loose, as well as for a few new ones I installed.
Anything wrong with this choice of glue? It's easily removable, so I don't see any drawbacks.
George
If you are referring to the pieces of cork and felt attached to the feet of keys and where keys come in contact with one another then contact cement is an excellent choice. I have tried Barge and was put off by the strong odor. I prefer Weldwood which is available at most hardware stores. It can be thinned with tolulene when it gets too thick.
Contact cement would not be recommended for the pads in key cups since it would make it impossible to heat the key cup and "float" the pad.
The "way to go" for pads is some kind of "hot melt" glue, be it synthetic or shellac. The stuff you've encountered is used mostly in Europe and has the name "Polsterkitt" which translates to "pad putty" (there's a white variety which really looks like window putty). It does indeed become soft under heat and sets to a rather brittle consistence after cooling. I don't like that stuff. Can't say why, tho'.
The cheapest you can use are glue sticks cut to chips that are melted in the key cup. MusicMedic sells glue pellets that serve the same purpose.
Others swear on shellac. Unlike hot-melt glue, shellac isn't subject to forming cheeselike strings when you remove a pad which certainly is a plus.
It boils down to personal preference, as long as the "glue" is heatable so that a slightly misaligned pad can be floated into position.
The drum section is always a good source of freshly chewed gum right before a concert.
I like Ferree's amber shellac sold in sticks for saxophone pads. It is a bit pricey, but it is great to work with. Music Medic sells stick shellac as well. For clarinet and flute trill and c key pads I use Badger State's Shur Stick which was originally the hot melt glue used by Leblanc. It also is very easy to work with.
For emergencies when pads fall out before a concert one can sometimes heat the key cup with a lighter and get the glue to stick again. Another band director trick is to use a small piece of chewing gum to reattach a clarinet pad that has fallen out. The drum section is always a good source of freshly chewed gum right before a concert.
While were talking pads, I was wondering if using a soldering gun for heating the cups during install/adjustment is a good practice? I have a great Weller soldering gun that I use for guitar repair. I was thinking that might be easier on the finish than an open flame.