Pinky mod to Martin Tenor?

Hey folks,

I posted this on the other place and thiught I'd post it here too :)

The low C# on my Martin tenor is a bit of a clunker--it's really heavy and I often find my finger slips off when I'm going from B or Bb up to it.

I've had the spring tension set as light as possible, but I was thinking it would help to add some kind of wedge to the trailing edge of the key itself. I'm thinking this might give me some extra leverage and make that key easier to hit on fast passages.

Anybody done this?

I'm thinking about a wedge shaped raised portion--made of epoxy?--right about where the lacquer is still there on the C# key of this one.

http://www.themartinstory.net/version7/Handcraft Committee/Handcraft Committee-118600-tenor-2.jpg
 
An epoxy wedge would probably make it feel more secure, so you could use more pressure without the chance of sliding off, and you might gain some additional lateral leverage.

If you adjust the G# leaf spring correctly, you can completely eliminate the G# pad cup spring and then lighten the G# spatula needle spring some more.
 
By "trailing edge" do you mean the part that is on the right of the roller in the photo? If you add something there, but shape it somehow you can so you can still press close to the roller edge of the key, it might help. But if you add something to that part and you then end up only pressing that part, it would have the effect of essentially shortening the lever arm. This short arm is one of the reasons this key feels a bit problematic so could add to it even more. Otherwise it might interfere with getting to the B key, having a "bulge" in the way. Or maybe you meant adding it to the non-roller part, right near the arm?
 
An epoxy wedge would probably make it feel more secure, so you could use more pressure without the chance of sliding off, and you might gain some additional lateral leverage.

Thanks Lance--that's what I was thinking (of course I wish I was closer to you so I could get the cadillac modification!)

If you adjust the G# leaf spring correctly, you can completely eliminate the G# pad cup spring and then lighten the G# spatula needle spring some more.

Picture something flying right over somebody's head! Can I quote this to my tech when I see him?
 
By "trailing edge" do you mean the part that is on the right of the roller in the photo? If you add something there, but shape it somehow you can so you can still press close to the roller edge of the key, it might help. But if you add something to that part and you then end up only pressing that part, it would have the effect of essentially shortening the lever arm.

Yeah. The problem is that my finger often slips off that edge--slippery when wet!


Thanks fellas...much appreciated!

R.
 
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If you people would towel off completely after leaving the pool and before you start playing your horns, this wouldn't happen...

But I play a weekly gig for the Community Center's underwater basket weaving group, and thus, we have to play underwater. :p


But, one of the problems I've always had with vintage keywork is my small hands and getting good leverage on the table keys. My VII table has slightly different leverage points than a VI if i recall which makes a difference. I still like the SBA layout the best even over VIs (no tilting spatula)
 
But I play a weekly gig for the Community Center's underwater basket weaving group, and thus, we have to play underwater.
Does that improve the intonation of the soprano sax player?

/me: Ducks and runs from thread.
 
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