bass clarinet ?

I am interseted in learning how to play a bass clarinet to play jazz. I play an old old buffent b flat clarinet and a tenor sax.
What's a good beginner bass clarinet? And an inexpensive but good mouth piece and ligature?

thanks
bob
 
The classic "entry level" horns are the Selmer Bundy and the Leblanc Vito - about as cheap as you are going to get new, and for one with casual interest, good enough to get by. Another option is the entry level Yamaha, but I can't offer an opinion on same, as I have only seen one of them in the flesh, and have never played one.

Used instruments open up your options somewhat, but also put you into the realm of the school owned instrument. Bass clarinets, like baritone saxes, get beaten all to hell when in scholastic use. Personally, I would avoid them like the plague, but others will certainly differ on this one. (I only buy new cars - same abuse arguments, too expensive to take a chance on buying used.)

The one benefit of going for a used instrument is the cost factor. Deductions of 50% or more are not uncommon for most musical instruments. Just be sure to take advantage of the 100% guarantee policy when you buy (if one exists).

For many years, Selmer was the go-to brand for a quality pro bass clarinet, either standard (to low Eb) or extended (to low C). (This accounts in part for the large number of pro Selmers on sale on eBay.) I own a number of basses, but only one to low C. If I had to buy my first one these days, I'd skip the extended range and spend the money on something a bit less frivolous. Again, others may differ here.

Buffet has always made wonderful instruments, but the Buffet rep wouldn't deign to send me a group of them when I bought, so I've not owned a Boehm Buffet, ever. Albert Buffets are another matter, although few would want to learn the Albert "system" these days, and the only ones you are going to find are going to be very used.

Leblanc have been beneath contempt with me for many a year, but I understand that they have shifted to the "long rod on back of horn" style of register key in recent years, so that may no longer be the case. If presented with a "non long rod on back of horn" Leblanc, even a professional quality one, run – don't walk – away, for those horns are dogs. And, of course, even with the newer model, you have to worry if they are still producing them...

Boosey Hawkes made good basses many years ago. I've not seen one on sale since the advent of eBay, and I doubt that many other have.

There are Chinese basses on the market. The only ones that I have seen were poorly built, out of tune with themselves, and had keywork that was way too "bendy'. There are also those who claim quality for Chinese instruments - all I can say is that I've not yet seen one that measures up to my standards.

I would also avoid horns without an integral floor peg. As you are interested in jazz performance, as likely as not you will be playing standing up. You can play bass from a peg while standing if you rest the foot of the peg on a chair or stool. (I do this when performing the classic Sentimental Journey arrangement that uses bass clarinet, rhythm section and female vocalist. I always get questions about what kind of saxophone I was playing...)

Mouthpieces? I've always (for over fifty four years now) played on Selmer stock pieces. Not the crappy ones shipped with the student horns - I mean the signature Selmer models with the grading system of letters and stars (i.e., C** or D or G or H). I prefer the HS** facing on sopranos, but I've not seen these for the bass. A more open facing D, E, F, G or H combined with a 2 1/2 reed would be best for someone playing in a jazz group. A harder reed and a closer facing makes for better upper register action.

Others will tout the Grabner or the Bay mouthpieces. I've only tried Charlie Bay's, and I didn't find enough there to want to change. Don't know squat about Grabner or Vandorn.

As you play jazz, you might not be offended by the angle that the student horns present the mouthpiece to your gob. However, you should be aware that Charlie Bay makes a modified neck that converts horns (both student and pro) to a much more clarinet-like angle. Iffen you take the mouthpiece socket from the Bay neck and combine it with the neck socket piece from a Selmer horn, you get an even better mouthpiece angle.

Clarinet embouchure is different from sax embouchure. If you taught yourself to play a clarinet, I'd recommend a few lessons from an experienced clarinet player until you learn all of the differences as to how your mouth interacts with the clarinet mouthpiece.

Ligatures vary. There is the classic metal model, a few aftermarket options like Rovners, and the one that I produce. For a casual player, just stick with the one supplied with the horn. The horn makes up perhaps 20% of what you produce, the mouthpiece, reed and ligature combination perhaps 15%, and all of the rest comes from north of the mouthpiece, i.e., you.
 
Great! thanks i really appreciate the depth of your response. I was hoping to find a good used one. But do not want to deal with used band instruments.

thanks
bob
 
Unfortunately, with large harmony instruments like bass clarinets and baritone saxophones, you are almost forced into the used market by 1) the price of the instrument as new, and 2) the relative lack of need for both instruments outside of the educational field.

I'm not saying that you can't find a good, used school horn. It's just that school instruments are usually held on to until they are beaten all to crap, at which point they are then thrown into an auction at the district headquarters (or something similar to that).

That's not saying you can't get lucky. I've had fantastic finds for alto and tenor saxophones. But, cross into that bass instrument territory and you are looking at major repairs in most cases, or major sales price in a limited few.
 
Depends...just a few days ago a 2yo Jupiter bass got only 400something, probably (or quite likely) because the seller wouldn't ship outside the U.S...
Don't dream of getting a ready-to-play instrument from anywhere except where you can play-test it, pay and leave the premises with the instrument in your hands. Everything else requires "post sale interaction" of some kind.
(fwiw I got an old Artley Bass off that site, and with an addl. $300 investment most of these "beaters" can be revived, provided nothing is broken, only bent.)
 
Depends...just a few days ago a 2yo Jupiter bass got only 400something, probably (or quite likely) because the seller wouldn't ship outside the U.S...

That was probably the Jupiter BC that I sold, except it wasn't 2 years old. The BC was likely made in 1991.

It was my first sale of a major item and I wanted to keep things simple and limit it to a domestic buyer. I recovered nearly all of my investment in this BC---It actually played pretty well, but I'm keeping my 20's Pedler. :smile:
 
Dunno if it was yours - afaik the 675 isn't on the market that log (but I could be wrong). I also didn't mean to pee onto someone's leg, it was more of a sigh put into words.

I too have a silver-plated Jupiter 675 and it plays circles around my trusty Artley/Bundy, it's really a neat instrument. When I bought my Uebel Emperior I decided to sell it and keep the Bundy for pub brawls, partly because it'd bring more money and partly because the Bundy is my first and self-overhauled bass - talk about emotional value...
 
I also didn't mean to pee onto someone's leg, it was more of a sigh put into words.

Ticactux - No pee on the leg taken! :smile:

My Bass was a 673 shown below selling for $460.00, another one sold the same day for $458.00. There were some tense moments as I mailed it on Monday USPS Priority and it disappeared until Friday (no tracking information), finally getting delivered on Saturday. I still didn't get any + feedback from the buyer - I guess that I should be glad that he's not complaining.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...RENCY=0&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=200&LH_Complete=1
 
I spent some time to respond yesterday and got blocked subject to the mods. I just realized that it must've been my good natured reference to tictactux's P** onto someones's leg, along with my few posts - although a member since 2010.
Oh well...nevermind!
 
Yah; it's the amount of posts. Hey, the automated stuff works great most of the time and we've been able to block a lot of spammers.
 
Yah; it's the amount of posts. Hey, the automated stuff works great most of the time and we've been able to block a lot of spammers.

It seems unlikely that a person would join the forum and then wait over three years to post spam!:confused:
 
It seems unlikely that a person would join the forum and then wait over three years to post spam!:confused:

Well that'd be a hybrid between a spammer and a sleeper... a speeper or a slammer, take your pick. ;-)

I don't think the software is smart enough to put behavioural patterns into its calculations.
 
I'd suggest a Selmer wood Bass: Series 9 or later...mouthpiece is a very personal thing.
I play on a Fobes basso nova...good sound and response. My favorite was a piece handmade by a maker I knew in Northern CA..which I stupidly sold in a moment of weakness (I think I had to pay rent); lots of sound; full with great response and tone color.
 
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