I was going to make a video of this.
If you plan on doing your own repad keep in mind you lack the equipment, skills, and knowledge to do it fundamentally quickly and efficiently.
Though it can still be done with some minor equipment.
You have to first consider what type of adhesive to use. Even though pellet glue sounds convenient .. convenient in this case also is a PITA as it's good for quick and accurate fitment. Best to use a real (versus the fake stuff which is more of a glue) amber shellac for adjustability.
Then you need a good, consistent and adjustable heat source. I use flame. I also use a flat soldering iron tip which does a really good job. There are also heat guns (i have one too).
Then pads. The older clarinets the pads are insert into the pad cup much more than modern day clarinets. There are "stepped" pads which are normally stickout over the edge of the pad cup found on more modern clarinets. The older ones stick totally in the pad cup and can be floated any which way. To measure your pad cups, you'll have to take all the pads out and check which type of pads you have. You'll have to measure them to get the correct sizes when ordering. There are "pad sets" which are approximate sizes. I don't know if musicmedic has 10G sets or ferrees tools ... I can't think of another public selling supplier other than those two off the top of my head.
a normal, old school setup is cork (trill keys, throat keys, register, side sliver key and C#/G#. The rest are high quality double bladder (ie, not cheap quality single or double bladder).
could use leather, synthetic, et all too
Next .. pad slicks ... and a super thin (the thinner the better) feeler material.
and thin screwdrivers (the better quality, the better).
then I would look at independent keys only
I would first do ONLY the register key. If you can't get this one right I wouldn't do any others until it is 100% correct
then the next one is the top pad cup of the lower joint ring keys. This brings about a bit of a challenge in that you want the proper pad height to accommodate the ring keys being level with the toneholes.
then the lower joint sliver key - requires patience to get the action correct.
then the upper joint sliver key
Then the trill keys, even though independent it may test your patience in installing them at the same time as a newbie.
and adjusting each one to be level with the tonehole .. one at a time
then upper ring/pad cup,
G# throat key
A throat key
and leave the two RH pinky top pinky keys for last.
You'll have to do each key one by one to make sure they are sealing correctly. It may sound tedious, but the correct method of doing it.
avoid chinese pads and shellac and stuff
avoid most amazon stuff too unless sold by a music tool company like Musicmedic or ferrees.
that's my 2 cents worth in 2 minutes.
as things are set up the biggest problem is "good enough" is not anywhere near good enough. It has to be highly accurate as even super minor leaks take away from the depth of the tonal quality and the accuracy and speed of the instrument's response.
this is why it's always recommended to practice on other instruments first to gain one's knowledge, skill, feel and patience in this. It may seem simple ... but then so is a car's engine overhaul.
