This is an abbreviated version of this thread.
1. Go to eBay. Register.
2. Look for *closed* ads with pictures for the same make and model instrument as yours in the same condition as yours. That last part's important. Condition can add or subtract a LOT of value.
3. You're going to want an average. Write down a list of #2. The larger the list, the better.
4. Fire up Google or your favorite search engine. Start searching dealers for the same make and model instrument as yours in the same condition as yours. Use dealers that have pictures on their websites.
5. You're going to want an average. Write down a list of #4. The larger the list, the better.
6. Add up #3 and #5. Take an average. Presto! That's how much your horn's worth.
1. Go to eBay. Register.
2. Look for *closed* ads with pictures for the same make and model instrument as yours in the same condition as yours. That last part's important. Condition can add or subtract a LOT of value.
3. You're going to want an average. Write down a list of #2. The larger the list, the better.
4. Fire up Google or your favorite search engine. Start searching dealers for the same make and model instrument as yours in the same condition as yours. Use dealers that have pictures on their websites.
5. You're going to want an average. Write down a list of #4. The larger the list, the better.
6. Add up #3 and #5. Take an average. Presto! That's how much your horn's worth.
Notes:
* There are the rare cases where you can't find a specific horn anywhere. I can help with those.
* Here's another rule-of-thumb that works about as well as any rule of thumb: your student horn is worth squat, except if it's a Yamaha. In which case, it's worth about 1/3 what you paid for it, new.
* Here's another rule-of-thumb that works about as well as any rule of thumb: your intermediate horn is worth about 1/3 what you paid for it, new. Even if you bought it in 1943 for $50.
* Most dealers do not charge a premium.
In most cases, dealers realize that eBay and other online auctions can provide about the same quality and a lot more quantity at a good price, so they've got to be competitive. This means that a dealer's horn is either a) in better condition or b) is just priced competitively. In most cases. There are still some dealerships that think that based on former clientele or based on who they have (had) working there, they can charge a premium. These places are fairly obvious. Avoid them.
* There are the rare cases where you can't find a specific horn anywhere. I can help with those.
* Here's another rule-of-thumb that works about as well as any rule of thumb: your student horn is worth squat, except if it's a Yamaha. In which case, it's worth about 1/3 what you paid for it, new.
* Here's another rule-of-thumb that works about as well as any rule of thumb: your intermediate horn is worth about 1/3 what you paid for it, new. Even if you bought it in 1943 for $50.
* Most dealers do not charge a premium.
In most cases, dealers realize that eBay and other online auctions can provide about the same quality and a lot more quantity at a good price, so they've got to be competitive. This means that a dealer's horn is either a) in better condition or b) is just priced competitively. In most cases. There are still some dealerships that think that based on former clientele or based on who they have (had) working there, they can charge a premium. These places are fairly obvious. Avoid them.