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Missing pedestal replacement?

My Pan Am c-mel is missing a pedestal stop on a left hand palm key. I could take the key from my Bruno c-mel, which has a built in stop, but I would rather repair the pan am correctly.
A. IS there a supplier which might have one?

B. How are they attached? Solder?

C. How would I know the correct height for the stop to be? Key space specs?

Thanks
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here and state that spare parts for your horn probably does not exist. Unless you purchase a donor horn.

Since it is a Conn stencil (?) there should be plenty of donor horns out there.

Otherwise you may want to give Conn-Selmer a call. maybe they have some old dust laden part bins in the back.

Yes the posts are soldered on.

I would play the horn, figure out a good intonation height for the key. I've always seen the keys with a ton of cork underneath them anyways which gives alot for adjustment. Then you could just make a post.
 
My Pan Am c-mel is missing a pedestal stop on a left hand palm key. I could take the key from my Bruno c-mel, which has a built in stop, but I would rather repair the pan am correctly.
A. IS there a supplier which might have one?

B. How are they attached? Solder?

C. How would I know the correct height for the stop to be? Key space specs?

Thanks

A. no

B. soft solder

C. open the key till it looks almost open enough and measure that distance from the bottom of the touchpiece to the body. The "almost" will be filled in with cork on the key.

I have lots of these types of posts from a collection of random sax parts I bought on eBay. If you can get me an approximate height, I can try to match the style from those on an old Conn tenor I have in the shop. P.M. me with your address and I can send you the closest one I have.

(Steve types faster than I do :) )
 
Thanks!

Is there a certain procedure for soldering? Or is it basic metal soldering. Mostly I do wiring, but I have soldered metal together. Just not silver plated brass. Silver solder? Or just lead.
 
Soft lead solder works best in this application. The heat required to silver solder the part on would unsolder everything in the general area.

Basic rules of soldering are to have each surface squeaky clean, apply a tiny amount of flux to each part, join the parts using some type of clamp or holder, and direct the tip of the blue part of the flame at the area to be soldered. A regular plumber's propane torch works well. The smaller Blazer torch is my first choice for this type of work. A soldering iron just doesn't transfer heat effectively enough for this application in my experience.

When it is hot enough, remove the flame and gently touch the solder to the joint. It takes very little solder if the parts are matched well. If the solder doesn't flow into the joint immediately reheat the area and try again. The trick of soldering on silver finishes is to not have the solder go all over the place. I am still learining in this area. The less flux, solder, and heat used---the better the result in my experience. Good luck.
 
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