on reeds and mpcs

kymarto

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I just got two Stowasser mpcs that I managed to snag off eBay. So now I have three Stowassers and the modern Ioan Scaunas mpc. The original Stowassers are like old sax mpcs: very low baffle, big chamber and very closed tip. Having three, I have made them all different, and in the process I noted some interesting things.

First, of course, a closed tip requires a harder reed. These mpcs all started with a tip opening of about .040", requiring a clarinet reed of strength 4-4.5 to play at all in the upper register. I have two opened up now to about .055", and I left one at around .045". The first two play with reeds of strength 2.5, more or less, and the latter takes a 3-3.5. When the reed strengths match the mpcs, I find very little real difference in response overall between closed and open tip. The open tips accept a bit more embouchure adjustment; the closed mpc wants more finesse, but I can do pretty much everything with both types, although the closed tip strikes me as being a bit more "stodgy", though not unpleasantly so.

Of the two more open tips, I have given them quite different facing curves. On mpc 1, the break comes higher up the rails, and is more exponential. On #2, it starts further back and is more linear. This is interesting. #1 feels more modern, and has a response I am more comfortable with: it feels more "open", and has better response in the higher second register.

#2, on the other hand, has excellent and easy voicing of the lower register, and care is needed to get the upper 2nd to speak well, as it tends to choke.

Thinking about it, this seems logical: more of the reed is involved in vibration in the latter: the tip then does not have to travel as far to close the tip, since the scrape of the reed has already bent and brought the tip closer to the tip rail. When the break is higher, as in the former, the scrape of the reed is not so much in play: the tip has to do all the bending.

With a soft reed, I found it near impossible to get anything above 2nd register A. George, it was very much like the recording you sent me of your own efforts to get up high. So I would suggest that perhaps it would make sense to check your facing curve, and turn up the tip a little more: like the last one centimeter or so to the tip rail. This may improve your high-end response without making blowing too hard.

Of course, response is a function of the scrape of the reed and how it matches the curve of the rails as well. If you take off some cane at the sides of the heart, and put that on a shorter break mpc, you can improve the low response, and a reed with thinner tip compared to thicker scrape, will help to improve the highs on a more linear, longer rail curve.

Finally, all three mpcs had an abrupt narrowing of the mpc at the throat to the diameter of the body bore. I found that opening that transition: making it more of a funnel; really opened up the sound of the instrument. With the original configuration, the horn feels very reluctant to sing: the sound is choked somehow and dynamics limited. Nice for soft playing, which is why I left one mpc alone, but for projection and dynamics, as well as a more open feeling, I found that opening up the throat was invaluable. I did not widen the back bore much: just a bit for the first 3-4mm after the chamber, but I did rout out all the wood that made a wall between the chamber and the throat. If you get the feeling that your horn is swallowing its sound, this is an area you might explore.

Finally, I want to pass on a tip about toothmarks. Wooden mpcs get grooved very easily by teeth on the top. My first mpc has tooth marks almost through the tip--at least 3mm deep. One of the new ones also had a groove about 2mm deep. I have found an elegant way to repair these: with cyanoacrylate glue. First I fill the groove with three or four applications of liquid (not gel-type) superglue. Then I spread three of four coats on the entire upper surface, and finally sand smooth and buff. This forms a hard, clear coat, which is much more resistant to tooth wear than the wood. If and when it is worn through, it is enough to repeat the process. Here is a before/after pic of one:
 
Thanks for this analysis Toby. It is very helpful. And it makes total sense. I'm really torn between the soft 1.5 cane and the 2.5 Legere Signature, for reasons I already explained. But really, my goal is to make the 1.5 reeds work - they give the exact tone that I like. The plastic gets close, but not quite there.

The MPC I have has quite a narrow opening. Last night I put the 1.5 reed on again and played for maybe 15 minutes. I was able to play everything in pitch up to and including the high B. Interestingly, the high A is the one that took some effort to keep in pitch - it wants to go flat with a soft reed. For the B, I actually have to relax a bit so it doesn't go high. With the 2.5 Legere, I don't have to think about it - but again, the tone is not as nice as the 1.5. By the way, I use the 2nd octave key for both the A and the B.

Previous owner of the instrument used reeds 3.0 and up.

I am not going to modify the original MPC, but I will make yet another one, and do all the experimentation on it. By the way, when you say "high on the rails", you mean closer to the tip or further from it? Pardon if this is "reed-speak" in which I'm not yet fluent.

Any tips on which gauge to get so that I can accurately measure the openings? I'm not going to make another ebony mpc until I have this - this time I don't want to just wing it.

Again, thanks for the details! This forum is a fantastic resource for me - a year ago, I had no idea where to get info.

George
 
Hi George,

I have a tip gauge made by someone years ago in a sax mpc forum. It uses a dial gauge attached to a flat plate where the mpc sits. It would be easy to make one. I'll post pix. But that just measures the actual opening of the tip: IOW if you lay the mpc flat on a piece of glass, for instance, the table of the mpc is in contact with the glass, and the tip opening is the distance from the glass surface to the tip rail.

With my old oboe embouchure, I prefer quite a hard reed, which gives me more control. But for that "always on" in-your-face Romanian sound (my bias is showing here), a soft reed or a harder reed on a more closed tip (smaller gap) is probably preferable.

The problem, as you have found, is that the highs tend to choke off, due to higher blowing pressures.

Now, there are different possible "facing curves". No matter what the tip opening, it is higher than the level of the table. At a certain point after the table, somewhere on the side rails, the "break" begins. From that point to the tip there is a certain curve. It can be very even: a straight line from the break to the tip (you don't want this). This is (obviously) linear. Then there is a more exponential curve: the rise getting steeper as you move towards the tip.

This can be measured, and the cheapest and easiest way is with a glass gauge and a set of mechanic's feeler gauges. The glass gauge is just a flat piece of glass with millimeter markings. The mpc is set flat on the glass with the tip at the 0 mark. Now the feeler gauges of different thicknesses are slid under the tip until they stop. The distance from the tip is noted for different thicknesses, and from that a curve can be plotted. You can also check rail evenness: the feeler gauge should stop at the same point on both sides; if it is not perpendicular then the rails are uneven, which is not desirable.

Easy to make a glass gauge: you can etch marks in a piece of glass, or even just use a marker.

So there are basically two parameters to play with: the length of the curve and the curve of the curve, and these play a large role in how the reed behaves.

Complementary to that is the scrape of the reed--in a way it corresponds to the rail curve: how the cane thickness varies from the stock of the reed to the tip also affects how the reed behaves. And every reed maker and reed model has a different scrape.

So in one sense you can match the reed to the mouthpiece, but you could also match the mpc to the reed. Seems best to have a generally good rail curve and then adjust reeds. There is an excellent book on Rees adjustment by a man conveniently named Ray Reed. Highly recommended.

George, I suggest making the curve up steeper in the last 0.5cm of the rails to the tip. This would mean opening the tip more. As you do this you will find that the tip rail gets thicker. It is important to make the tip rail thin. I carefully take material off from the inside edge using a diamond needle file. Do not simply round the inside edge--you will get better response and less edge and tendency to squeak if you make a clean angled inside edge.

Of course it's much better to have a second mpc, so that you don't screw up your playing piece. I think my Scaunas mpc has the kind of sound you like. If you want I can send pix and measures not only of the rail curve, but of the baffle height.
 
Further note: I found a very hard reed and put it on the very closed mpc, and both the sound and response are much more similar to the open mpcs than I expected. So much has to do with the scrape of the reed! Yes, there are some relatively subtle differences depending on chamber configuration, but nothing like the differences found reed to reed.

Baffle height, on the other hand, makes a big difference. Benade explains this as having to do with how Bernoulli forces affect the timing of reed closure. As the reed closes the Bernoulli force increases more rapidly with a high baffle, pulling the reed shut more rapidly at the end of its cycle than with a lower baffle. This "clipping" increases the proportion of higher partial in the sound. A somewhat similar effect can be had by thinning the tip of the reed. The final sound has much to do with the timing of how the reed bends during its cycle, shaping the air pulse, and that is in large part due to the mechanical stiffness of the reed: how it bends, and the shape of the surface over which it is being bent.
 
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