Re-corking MPC tenon on top joint

So I have a general question, but some intro is needed:

After John mentioned that he noticed a gap between 2 joints, I took some measurements as well and found a 4-5mm gap between the bottom of my MPC mortise and the top of the upper joint MPC tenon. I addressed the situation last night, as I mentioned before. Now that tenon bottoms out in the MPC like I want it to. But looking at how the cork is set up, it's really just a 7mm or so of cork width on that tenon that is achieving the seal. Considering that the tenon is about 18mm long, and that the tenon itself is much thinner than the mouthpiece opening, I figured there is about 1mm of air space all around the upper part of the tenon once in the MPC (in addition to the original gap due to the previously too short a tenon). I thought this could not be a good thing acoustically. So after I finished shaping the newly extended tenon. I sanded down the existing strip of cork so that it's flush with the rest of the tenon, and then glued a new strip of cork, about 14mm wide, around the tenon, reaching nearly to the very top. I sanded that down to fit the MPC, applied some cork grease, and now I seem to have a perfect snug fit.

My question is: why would I not want to do this? Is there any reason why the original cork channel in the tenon is only about 7mm wide? Both of my tarogatok are like that. My common sense is that you want to eliminate or minimize any air gaps, and have a direct, sealed connection from the MPC to the instrument.

I played the taragot after my mods, and I immediately found it more efficient - and it seemed like the high notes came out much easier. But that could be just a placebo effect, plus it was late at night and I couldn't really play as loud as I wanted to.

George
 
No, you did fine. Generally speaking, I think that the cork is thin because 1) if it extended all the way to the end it would tend to get frayed when you put the mpc on, and 2) there is no real reason for it to be wider if it seals and the mpc does not wobble. Benade says that gaps like that--and that is big--are real energy stealers. But to be honest I do not notice a big change when I pull my mouthpiece some mm of the cork.
 
This sounds similar to a clarinet where if the barrel is pulled out far enough the throat keys are especially affected due to the extra gap between the barrel and upper joint. Of course that gap, if it becomes large from pulling out the barrel alot can affect the resistance and ease of playing.

One reason many players like to use tuning rings or have a selection of different barrels.
 
I don't want to drive anyone crazy with this comment, but well made clarinets have virtually no wobble or movement at the middle joint even without a cork installed in the track. The pieces of each joint are fit to those tolerances. The compression of the cork simply adds a level of security to hold the instrument together.
 
I don't want to drive anyone crazy with this comment, but well made clarinets have virtually no wobble or movement at the middle joint even without a cork installed in the track. The pieces of each joint are fit to those tolerances. The compression of the cork simply adds a level of security to hold the instrument together.

That is my thinking exactly. Whoever made my mpc did not do a good job fustom-fitting it to the instrument. I don't think there should be 1mm of wiggle room all around the perimeter of the mpc tenon.
 
And of course with shakuhachi flutes, the tenon joint is made to fit snugly without any cork or other material whatsoever.
 
Some makers purposely leave a gap between the end of the tenon to the bottom of the socket. I think Buffet has this, for example in the middle tenon joint. The maker of my clarinet told me it is tuned with the barrels open 1mm (I have played completely closed too, when cold).

It only matters that there is no disturbing wobble, the joint seals and that it's not too difficult to assemble (or easy and would slip, rare but can happen).

The new Backun clarinets actually have titanium reinforcement rings inside the socket, around the circumference. It is supposed to seal with without the cork (although the one I disassembled and assembled actually wobbled slightly with the rubber cork installed and some tape).
 
Here are some pictures of the result:

Tenon rebuilt with ebony ring:
IMG_20120307_232034.jpg


New cork:
IMG_20120307_232000.jpg


Again, maybe it's placebo effect, but the instruments feels more efficient now.

The original tenon can be seen here: http://www.woodwindforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=37435&postcount=9

George
 
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