I have a wooden Yamaha YCL 450N clarinet. And i think i need to oil it, but im not sure, i havent oiled or repadded it since i got in 7th grade (im now going to the 10th) and i have no way to get ahold of bore oil, or any time to oil it cause my mom is always working and it survived last marching season in 90+ weather, but im kinda scared of cracking. And im scared to put any thing in it, cause my mom will kill me if it gets messed up. Are there any things i can use to keep it up, until i can get it fixed? Im looking at it now and it feels a tad bit dry, I heard using orange peels can prevent cracking, and you can use vegetable oil for inbetween oilings. Is it true?
WHAT SHOULD I DO!
- Thread starter Bb Clarinet_14
- Start date
Swab your instrument, dry the tenon sockets, store the instrument in its case, and put it into your socks drawer or your closet. The garments therein will act as a moisture and temperature buffer.
That bit of oil in the bore wouldn't prevent it from cracking anyway. Sudden changes in humidity are much worse. But if you indeed think you should oil its bore, put some drops of good olive oil on a rag and swab the instrument with it.
An old 35mm film canister, filled with wet cotton, lid punctured, and put in the case will help as a source of (moderate) moisture.
That bit of oil in the bore wouldn't prevent it from cracking anyway. Sudden changes in humidity are much worse. But if you indeed think you should oil its bore, put some drops of good olive oil on a rag and swab the instrument with it.
An old 35mm film canister, filled with wet cotton, lid punctured, and put in the case will help as a source of (moderate) moisture.
But...
...don't overdo it. I've seen student's cases that were an oily mess, this to over-oiling of the bore. Drops only on the swab, don't moisten it to the point where it is soaked.
I've heard arguments both for and against an in-case moistener like orange peels or humidifiers. Up to this point, I've managed to keep some ten or twelve clarinets crack-free, without any special provisions, and with precious little oiling.
But, I may have been lucky. I've known others who have had cracked joints while taking every precaution in the books, and still others who have done nothing and have had cracked joints. Go figure...
...don't overdo it. I've seen student's cases that were an oily mess, this to over-oiling of the bore. Drops only on the swab, don't moisten it to the point where it is soaked.
I've heard arguments both for and against an in-case moistener like orange peels or humidifiers. Up to this point, I've managed to keep some ten or twelve clarinets crack-free, without any special provisions, and with precious little oiling.
But, I may have been lucky. I've known others who have had cracked joints while taking every precaution in the books, and still others who have done nothing and have had cracked joints. Go figure...
But my orange peels make my cnet smell good... :-D
An important consideration is where you live and how much humidity there is in the air throughout the year. In extremely dry climates the wood can lose its natural moisture and crack. Players who move from a moderately humid location to a dry area such as Arizona or Utah will often experience cracks in woodwinds as well as in stringed instruments.
If you look down the bore of your clarinet holding it up to the light, the clarinet will tell you if it needs oiling. In an overly dry clarinet the bore will have exaggerated grain lines of the wood running parallel to the body. A body that has not lost its moisture will look relatively smooth by comparison.
If you find the bore needs oiling, most music shops will have a bore oiling kit that contains a wool applicator and a bottle of bore oil. I like to use the Doctor's Bore Oil http://www.doctorsprod.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=12. Do not use a cooking or vegetable oil because it will create a rancid odor after a period of time.
As was mentioned, easy does it on the amount of oil to apply. With the applicator I would recommend using only 4 or 5 drops at the most for both the top and bottom joints. I would suggest doing only the inside of each joint, running the applicator back and forth and spinning it to distribute the oil, and then leaving it overnight to soak into the wood.
In the morning run your regular swab through 9 or 10 times to remove any excess oil and you are good to go for another 6 to 12 months.
If you look down the bore of your clarinet holding it up to the light, the clarinet will tell you if it needs oiling. In an overly dry clarinet the bore will have exaggerated grain lines of the wood running parallel to the body. A body that has not lost its moisture will look relatively smooth by comparison.
If you find the bore needs oiling, most music shops will have a bore oiling kit that contains a wool applicator and a bottle of bore oil. I like to use the Doctor's Bore Oil http://www.doctorsprod.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=12. Do not use a cooking or vegetable oil because it will create a rancid odor after a period of time.
As was mentioned, easy does it on the amount of oil to apply. With the applicator I would recommend using only 4 or 5 drops at the most for both the top and bottom joints. I would suggest doing only the inside of each joint, running the applicator back and forth and spinning it to distribute the oil, and then leaving it overnight to soak into the wood.
In the morning run your regular swab through 9 or 10 times to remove any excess oil and you are good to go for another 6 to 12 months.
