Stuffy throat Bb

I used to have a wonderful clarinet that was a joy to play. Unfortunately I used it in an elevated pit in winter and it didn't come through the show too well. I came out of the show with a sunburn from the lights, and the clarinet now has a number of cracks. Repairable, but not on my budget.:cry:

Carl, when i get back on my "feet" per say you can ship it to me. I need some kindling for winter .. err .. i mean i'll fix her up as a project.
 
YIKES!

I don't have the stomach for this.
It sounds like I would have to turn my prized clarinet into "Franken-Selmer" to get Bb to speak clearly. I think I'll just live with it.

I do appreciate all the help and insight as to why this happens.
 
OK, I have resisted until now. First comment - Selmers are worse than Buffets in this department.

Second - I have done extensive register key modifications for several truly world class clarinetists, The solutions are, in decreasing order of popularity:

1. Use a cork pad on the register key. Before installing the pad, cut a little more than 1/4" off of the pointed end off a large blued steel saxophone needle spring. Push the point through the center of the cork register key pad so that a little more than 1/8" protrudes through the center of the pad. Glue the pad into the register key as usual. When mounted, the point of the needle spring should protrude into the center of the register key vent tube, even when the key is open.

The science behind the modification:
There is an oscillation in and out of the register key tube when the key is open. This movement of air is made more efficient when there is a cone inserted into the opening of the vent. This cone is the tip of the needle spring. Experts in "scavenging" of exhaust from dragster engines will understand better than anyone else.

Caveat:
Expect to find this tip on online discussions by a fat, bizarre sax repairman who will pawn it off as his own idea. It's not his idea, and it's not mine.

2. Cut off a short length of flat spring for a saxophone. It should be slightly shorter than the length of the register key vent tube. Most flat springs taper from the hole where the screw holds them to the tip, where the spring is narrower. Cut the spring so that the wide end is the same width as the internal diameter of the vent tube at the external end. Press fit the spring into the vent tube so that it is slightly below the external opening covered by the pad.

Good stuff:
Both modifications are reversible. They may solve your problem, or they may make it worse. I have never had any returns on the needle spring modification. I have performed the needle spring modification as an assistant to a designer for the Buffet corporation during a clinic on clarinets.

Both modifications are decades, if not centuries, old. When the fat, bizarre sax repairman
says they are his idea, he is full of cork grease, but then again, we knew that.
 
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The Signature has a cork register pad, and I think I may have a large blued steel sax needle spring in my 'tech box'.

Is it possible for a relativly good DIY'er to do this modification?
If I don't have a blued steel, will a regular 'white' needle spring work?
 
A pointed needle spring works best, but others are worth a try. This modification is not rocket science (I hate that cliche, but I used it, didn't I?). Any good craftsperson can pull it off. It's good to have more than one cork pad, in case there's a problem centering the point of the spring into the open vent tube.

I have always advocated extensive practice to overcome the "hissy Selmer Bb," but better clarinet players than I have fallen in love with the needle spring solution, even on clarinets that don't hava a particularly bad throat Bb.
 
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What would the orientation be for the flat spring method?
 
I wouldn't say the Bb is 'hissy'. It's more muffled but I can see where the two are similar.
I've had the Signature since '02 and belive me I've practiced.
It's funny that the same Bb on my 30's Selmers speak very clearly.
 
Since alignment doesn't seem as critical, and I have a few beater saxes around, I will experiment with this maybe this weekend.

Hissing isn't really the problem, it is more like having an Aston Martin which feels like a well tuned Chevette when in 2nd gear. It isn't too bad on its own, but in comparison with the rest of the instrument, it is noticeably out of character.
 
I'm SOL when it comes to flat springs.

If you try this one, let me know how it turnes out.
I'll try the pin method if I can find a needle spring.
 
Just to be safe,
Does the pointed/sharp end go into the cork or into the register vent?
 
Just to be safe,
Does the pointed/sharp end go into the cork or into the register vent?

It goes all the way through the cork register key pad and protrudes through the front of the pad (the side that covers the hole), and the tip of the pin protrudes into the open vent tube. When the register key is closed, the pin goes even farther into the register key vent tube.
 
Got it. I think I'll be able to do this without too much trouble.

Just to be safe I'll practice on an old horn I'm not currently using.
 
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