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Can you identify this Noblet?

Hi all, I just found this forum and I'm thrilled. :-D I have 2 kids who each play an instrument... I love to browse the forums to learn about their instruments, care... and lots of other great information. (I've been a member of a trumpet forum for a couple of years as well.)

So I'm hoping you can shed some light on the Noblet I just purchased. I've been to Clarinet Perfection (excellent site!) and got some great info, but no emblems identical to the one I have. The clarinet is all wood, is stamped MADE IN FRANCE and the Serial # 2530 and the emblem is oval with what looks to me like a harp at the top, D.NOBLET PARIS inside the oval, and the DN at the bottom. On Clarinet Perfection, Models 7165 and 340 each show serial #'s that fall within this range and would be from 1967 or 1975, but there are no pics for these models so I'm still unsure. I originally thought it would be a 40 or 45 but now I just don't know. Can you identify it...and do you know if it's student/intermediate or pro?



Have a great day! Sandy
 
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ok. I don't have an emblem that exactly matches that one due to the newer music lyre on top but it is a Model 40 with the oval emblem.

The model 40 oval emblem i have on the site is an earlier version.
Guess I'll add a newer version there too.

I'm having problems with Flickr so I can't really see the other pics

the serial number is perplexing though but I've seen other oddities where the sn# does not fit the list. The lists were gotten from Leblanc USA a couple years before they were bought by Selmer USA. And they were faxed to me from an insider .. if you had spoken to someone on the phone they would not have existed !!

So it looks to be a later model 40 from the mid to late 1960s. I would like to see other pics of it though .. or maybe they are there as when i run Flickr I get stack overflolws
 
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Thanks for the replies! I appreciate it. I've also found Clarinet Perfection to be very informative. I'll try posting the pics again, perhaps I'll get it 2nd time around! You're welcome to use them on the site if you'd like. I'm glad the clarinet is what I thought it was.
BTW... is the emblem supposed to be GREEN... ?!? :shock:

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BTW... is the emblem supposed to be GREEN... ?!? :shock:

Probably started out life as gold / copper, and a life of oil and oxidisation has turned it green.

You can restore it is you want to, by VERY carefully picking out the impression with a needle and rubbing gold wax over it, and then rubbing excess wax off leaving wax in the impression. Wax will also get into the grain if the grain is not tight, so beware. It can be picked out of the grain if necessary with the pin again.

An example:

[Admin: Photos not available. June 2023, Photobucket deactivated free subscriber accounts.]
 
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Gandalfe

Thanks, it is a very satisfying job.

It is not particularly painstaking, though. The tricky bit is accurately and carefully running a needle through the stamp. The old wax just scrapes out.

You then scribble over the stamp like a 3 year old covering the area, and then wipe the surface scribble off with a cloth, leaving, the stamp filled with wax.

5 minutes per logo, tops. It does need a good intended stamp to do it successfully, though.

My E&S soprano clarinet was trickier and not work so well, as the embossing was not so deep.

[Admin: Photos not available. In June 2023, Photobucket deactivated free subscriber accounts.]
 
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Chris, those look amazing!! I'm going to have to do it - since I'm going through the rest of the horn anyhow, looks like the perfect finishing touch. Thanks for the inspiration!
 
The grain looks finer on the Couesons than on the other close ups.

I agree
Though it is not that the grain on the E&S is particularly open (and I really like the unstained look), but the wood in the Couesnon Monopoles is just fantastic.

Chris
 
when I used the wax based guilding products (including the crayons) I used to put it under a heat lamp to make it set into the emblem better. It increased it's longevity.

Now I used a high end professinoal guilding products not based on wax and it requires a much more prep but lasts a very long time compared to wax. I can also do several shades of gold or silver.

I also provide a service where I can recut emblems that are shallow or even partially wiped out.
 
Chris, those look amazing!! I'm going to have to do it - since I'm going through the rest of the horn anyhow, looks like the perfect finishing touch. Thanks for the inspiration!

Have a go!

I use a product like this:
http://www.liberon.com.au/index.php?act=products&cat=6&prod=99
There are a variety of shades of gold

And just use the stick like a crayon, rubbing in circular motion over the emblem. Then to wipe the excess off, rub towards the centre of the emblem, with a force that you think will push the wax further in.

If it is going for a service, and the surface and bore is oiled, then there is less chance of wax going in the grain if you do this after it has been treated.

Chris
 
Have a go!

I use a product like this:
http://www.liberon.com.au/index.php?act=products&cat=6&prod=99
There are a variety of shades of gold

And just use the stick like a crayon, rubbing in circular motion over the emblem. Then to wipe the excess off, rub towards the centre of the emblem, with a force that you think will push the wax further in.

If it is going for a service, and the surface and bore is oiled, then there is less chance of wax going in the grain if you do this after it has been treated.

Chris
Chris

Went to the URL appears to be dead now. What product is this? What's your favorite logo restoration technique? how is it best to keep the gold from getting in the woods grain?

Thanks
Brad
 
Hello, Brad, welcome to the forum. Some are using this source from Michigan:
(reference How does one Refill the makers signature?)

Although I own 6 clarinets, I have not attempted this yet.

Sorry Brad, got names mixed up. - George
 
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I started with the Ferrees trademark crayons. they were okay.
The Liberon products, from crayons to gilt cream are IMHO far better.
You can find it on Amazon too
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one can also use Shell Silver and Shell Gold suspensions too if you want to go that far.
 
Chris

Went to the URL appears to be dead now. What product is this? What's your favorite logo restoration technique? how is it best to keep the gold from getting in the woods grain?

Thanks
Brad
I should add I havea YouTube video for home restores of how to do gold fill.
in short, you use wax over the emblem area, smootly covering it. Not a THICK layer just a little bit.
You then you a tool, even a toothpick will work, to remove any fill, gunk etc from the emblem.
If you use a crayon you them write it over the emblem to fill the emblem. The wax covering will prevent the crayon from getting in to the wood grain. If you use a paste, the same thing. With a crayon you then want to put it under a hot bulb lamp of some type (doesn't have to be much), as this will melt the crayon so that it adhears much better to the wood grain itself.

Then afterwards after everything is solidified you can just wipe out (not aggressively as you don't want to wipe out the emblem), but wipe around the emblem to remove the wax.

here's the two youtube videos you want to watch. keep in mind, I presented this for home repairs. I use a machine (that is used for woodworking) to buff a wax on the wood. then some metal tools to remove any from the emblem, then the gilt cream. BUt that can be quite an investment for a infrequent repairer. It's actually not very hard, just a bit attention to detail.
 
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